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Rabbits-
'Caestrophes' are the grape like dark toilets which rabbits should recycle back into their system. If you see this lying around the hutch it means you are feeding too much solid food 'pellets and mix' and they are not hungry enough to carry out this nutrient rich essential process. They will become overweight and at higher risk of 'fly strike' and this will tamper the overall wellbeing of your rabbit.
There are two optional jabs for rabbits given by a vet for myxomatosis and VHD (viral haemorrhoid disease).
Rabbits are perfectly fine living alone as it is the love and attention that they receive that is most important. However, a companion is good to have company of their own kind, whether it be in a separate hutch nearby or as a cage mate. But there are only certain male/female neutered combinations that get on successfully so it's advisable to seek guidance first to avoid them fighting.
Each rabbit has a breed standard weight which applies to all show rabbits and pet rabbits alike. It is the show breeders in the world who create all these breed and colour varieties, with new breeds coming into play every so often so weight limits must be kept to in order to achieve a healthy weight for your rabbit. Weighing your rabbit from time to time ensures it is not under weight. Also this prevents them from becoming overweight or terribly obese doing the animal no favours what so ever, leading to higher risk of 'fly strike', sticky bums and general bad health. Please ask if you are unsure of a suitable weight for your pet.
A rabbit's diet must never be just changed overnight, any change in pellets or mix must be carried out over a 2 week period. You should stick to the diet the rabbit is already fed, bearing in mind if it's a good quality diet. Rabbits need a very high fibre, very low protein diet and so a wholesome pelleted solid food is advisable to avoid 'nit-picking' and provide a sufficient fibre content.
Rabbits are 'grazers' and should always have access to fresh hay and straw to keep the gut system moving and also keep teeth from becoming sharp of overgrown. A dried grass product is good to add to their diet along with vegetables/fruit/greens in moderation depending on what the animal is used to, otherwise introduce gradually.
Their average life span is said to be 6-8 years for smaller breeds and 4-6 years for larger breeds.
Natural, foraging treats are best rather than those containing vast amounts of sugar which can pile on the pounds in weight and not do them any good for their long term health.
Your animal should be given a quick general health 'once over' whenever handled to keep an eye on its general health and appearance. The underneath should be hygienic and free of matting or soiling. Longhaired varieties must be knot free.
Wire mesh beneath your run stops them from digging out. Protecting the hutch and run from the vast elements like wind, rain and bright sunshine is essential perhaps using Perspex, green garden netting or wooden boarding allowing air to filter but not risk the animals well-being.
During the warmer months when flies are about it is vital to keep dirt corners free of excess waste. Fly strike can occur if the rabbit itself or the toilet area is soiled as this provides ideal conditions for a fly to lay its eggs and hatch out into maggots, feeding on the animal. Keep areas hygienic- a pet shop product to assist prevention of fly strike is available and may be of some help to you.
'Caestrophes' are the grape like dark toilets which rabbits should recycle back into their system. If you see this lying around the hutch it means you are feeding too much solid food 'pellets and mix' and they are not hungry enough to carry out this nutrient rich essential process. They will become overweight and at higher risk of 'fly strike' and this will tamper the overall wellbeing of your rabbit.
There are two optional jabs for rabbits given by a vet for myxomatosis and VHD (viral haemorrhoid disease).
Rabbits are perfectly fine living alone as it is the love and attention that they receive that is most important. However, a companion is good to have company of their own kind, whether it be in a separate hutch nearby or as a cage mate. But there are only certain male/female neutered combinations that get on successfully so it's advisable to seek guidance first to avoid them fighting.
Each rabbit has a breed standard weight which applies to all show rabbits and pet rabbits alike. It is the show breeders in the world who create all these breed and colour varieties, with new breeds coming into play every so often so weight limits must be kept to in order to achieve a healthy weight for your rabbit. Weighing your rabbit from time to time ensures it is not under weight. Also this prevents them from becoming overweight or terribly obese doing the animal no favours what so ever, leading to higher risk of 'fly strike', sticky bums and general bad health. Please ask if you are unsure of a suitable weight for your pet.
A rabbit's diet must never be just changed overnight, any change in pellets or mix must be carried out over a 2 week period. You should stick to the diet the rabbit is already fed, bearing in mind if it's a good quality diet. Rabbits need a very high fibre, very low protein diet and so a wholesome pelleted solid food is advisable to avoid 'nit-picking' and provide a sufficient fibre content.
Rabbits are 'grazers' and should always have access to fresh hay and straw to keep the gut system moving and also keep teeth from becoming sharp of overgrown. A dried grass product is good to add to their diet along with vegetables/fruit/greens in moderation depending on what the animal is used to, otherwise introduce gradually.
Their average life span is said to be 6-8 years for smaller breeds and 4-6 years for larger breeds.
Natural, foraging treats are best rather than those containing vast amounts of sugar which can pile on the pounds in weight and not do them any good for their long term health.
Your animal should be given a quick general health 'once over' whenever handled to keep an eye on its general health and appearance. The underneath should be hygienic and free of matting or soiling. Longhaired varieties must be knot free.
Wire mesh beneath your run stops them from digging out. Protecting the hutch and run from the vast elements like wind, rain and bright sunshine is essential perhaps using Perspex, green garden netting or wooden boarding allowing air to filter but not risk the animals well-being.
During the warmer months when flies are about it is vital to keep dirt corners free of excess waste. Fly strike can occur if the rabbit itself or the toilet area is soiled as this provides ideal conditions for a fly to lay its eggs and hatch out into maggots, feeding on the animal. Keep areas hygienic- a pet shop product to assist prevention of fly strike is available and may be of some help to you.
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Guinea Pigs-
Guinea pigs are a group animal and do enjoy company in pairs or more,
however some will not tolerate a companion so discretion is needed here. Seek
advice on suitable male/female combinations. In conclusion it is the love
and attention that the owner provides that is the most important factor.
The most common health complaint in guinea pigs is infestation of lice, statics and mites, either in the coat or as ear mites. This needs to be treated immediately as they will be passed around to any cage mates. A visit to the vet for an injection or oral treatment is advisable, or you can treat regularly using 'spot on like' products from pet shops. Small animal pump sprays are very useful in keeping these at bay between bathing with an insecticidal shampoo found out your pet shop. Bathing regularly and using preventatives avoids any major outbreaks.
Guinea pigs will enjoy little houses and tunnels to hide and explore, keeping their time occupied.
A male guinea pig has a 'grease spot' which is situated on their back end. This scent gland is more pungent than that of female guinea pigs. It should be kept free of grease build up at times of bathing, easily removed gently with an old toothbrush and fairy liquid or surgical spirit.
The breed varieties and colours around are created amongst the show world and there are a fair few newer breeds available in recent times.
Their average life span is said to be 6-8 years.
Guinea pigs are vegetarians and enjoy a plentiful supply of greens/fruit & vegetables daily, along with the basic diet of their hay, straw, dried grasses, hard food and water supply.
Healthy forage, natural treats are best, they are low in sugar and will not hinder the animals general health in the long run.
Your animal should be given a quick general health 'once over' whenever handled to keep an eye on its general health and appearance. Longhaired varieties must be free of matting and soiling.
Wire mesh beneath your run stops them from digging out. Protecting the hutch and run from the vast elements like wind, rain and bright sunshine is essential perhaps using Perspex, green garden netting or wooden boarding allowing air to filter but not risk the animals
well-being.
During the warmer months when flies are about it is vital to keep dirt corners free of excess waste. Fly strike can occur if the rabbit itself or the toilet area is soiled as this provides ideal conditions for a fly to lay its eggs and hatch out into maggots, feeding on the animal. Keep areas hygienic- a pet shop product to assist prevention of fly strike is available and may be of some help to you.
Guinea pigs are a group animal and do enjoy company in pairs or more,
however some will not tolerate a companion so discretion is needed here. Seek
advice on suitable male/female combinations. In conclusion it is the love
and attention that the owner provides that is the most important factor.
The most common health complaint in guinea pigs is infestation of lice, statics and mites, either in the coat or as ear mites. This needs to be treated immediately as they will be passed around to any cage mates. A visit to the vet for an injection or oral treatment is advisable, or you can treat regularly using 'spot on like' products from pet shops. Small animal pump sprays are very useful in keeping these at bay between bathing with an insecticidal shampoo found out your pet shop. Bathing regularly and using preventatives avoids any major outbreaks.
Guinea pigs will enjoy little houses and tunnels to hide and explore, keeping their time occupied.
A male guinea pig has a 'grease spot' which is situated on their back end. This scent gland is more pungent than that of female guinea pigs. It should be kept free of grease build up at times of bathing, easily removed gently with an old toothbrush and fairy liquid or surgical spirit.
The breed varieties and colours around are created amongst the show world and there are a fair few newer breeds available in recent times.
Their average life span is said to be 6-8 years.
Guinea pigs are vegetarians and enjoy a plentiful supply of greens/fruit & vegetables daily, along with the basic diet of their hay, straw, dried grasses, hard food and water supply.
Healthy forage, natural treats are best, they are low in sugar and will not hinder the animals general health in the long run.
Your animal should be given a quick general health 'once over' whenever handled to keep an eye on its general health and appearance. Longhaired varieties must be free of matting and soiling.
Wire mesh beneath your run stops them from digging out. Protecting the hutch and run from the vast elements like wind, rain and bright sunshine is essential perhaps using Perspex, green garden netting or wooden boarding allowing air to filter but not risk the animals
well-being.
During the warmer months when flies are about it is vital to keep dirt corners free of excess waste. Fly strike can occur if the rabbit itself or the toilet area is soiled as this provides ideal conditions for a fly to lay its eggs and hatch out into maggots, feeding on the animal. Keep areas hygienic- a pet shop product to assist prevention of fly strike is available and may be of some help to you.